Saint Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands
The Saint Thomas Guide

Saint Thomas

The Ritz-Carlton Club at Great Bay, Sapphire Beach Resort & Marina, the Red Hook ferry to Saint John, and the calm-water beaches of the eastern Smith Bay strip.

U.S. Virgin IslandsRedAwning · Vol. 01
A Field Guide

What Saint Thomas actually feels like.

Saint Thomas is the most-trafficked island in the U.S. Virgin Islands — Charlotte Amalie on the south coast is one of the busiest cruise-ship ports in the Caribbean (three deep-water piers, Main Street's duty-free row, and the Skyride cable car up to Paradise Point); the eastern Smith Bay corridor from Coral World Ocean Park to Cowpet Bay holds the resort condominium strip — Sapphire Beach Resort & Marina, the Ritz-Carlton St. Thomas, and the Ritz-Carlton Club at Great Bay are all within two miles of each other on the eastern tip; Red Hook a few minutes south is the ferry hub, with hourly 20-minute crossings to Saint John's Cruz Bay; Magens Bay on the north shore is the island's signature beach; and Cyril E. King Airport (STT) on the south side west of Charlotte Amalie handles the U.S. East Coast wide-bodies.

From Smith Bay to Magens Bay

Activities in Saint Thomas

Day-sail to Saint John on the Lady Lynsey II, snorkel the Coki Point reef at Coral World, take the Skyride to Paradise Point above Charlotte Amalie, and the Cruz Bay ferry from Red Hook for a Saint John National Park beach day.

01

Catamaran to Saint John on the Lady Lynsey II

The Ritz-Carlton's resident 65-foot catamaran runs the half-day sail from Great Bay around the eastern point and across Pillsbury Sound to Saint John — Trunk Bay snorkel, Maho Bay turtle-swim, an open bar and on-board lunch, and a sunset return. About $145 per adult; book through the Ritz concierge a day ahead. Non-resort renters at Sapphire Beach can book the same boat through the resort's reservations desk.

02

Cruz Bay Ferry from Red Hook

The Red Hook ferry terminal is five minutes south of the Smith Bay condo strip — boats run every hour 6 a.m. to midnight on the 20-minute crossing to Saint John's Cruz Bay. From Cruz Bay the Trunk Bay, Maho Bay, and Cinnamon Bay safari-taxi day-trip is the U.S. Virgin Islands National Park's highlight reel. About $9 each way; bring cash.

03

Snorkel at Coki Point Beach

Coki Point Beach on the eastern north shore is the most-recommended walk-in snorkel on Saint Thomas — the reef starts six feet from the sand and runs to a 30-foot wall fifty yards out, with parrotfish, blue tang, and the resident school of yellowtail snapper. Free; the parking lot is shared with Coral World Ocean Park. Combine with the Coral World aquarium for the full day.

04

Magens Bay Beach Day

Magens Bay's heart-shaped mile of palm-lined sand on the north shore is regularly named one of the ten most beautiful beaches in the world by Condé Nast and National Geographic. The bay is fully sheltered (no waves, no current), the road in winds down through the Mountain Top peak, and the on-site beach bar runs the famous bushwacker rum cocktail. About $5 entry; pair with the Drake's Seat and Mountain Top scenic-drive overlooks on the way down.

05

Skyride to Paradise Point

The Paradise Point Skyride is a 700-foot enclosed cable car that lifts off the cruise-ship dock area in Charlotte Amalie to the 700-foot Paradise Point overlook above the harbor — the panorama runs from Hassel Island and the cruise-ship piers across to the British Virgin Islands. About $24 round-trip; the cliffside Paradise Point Bar and Grill at the top serves the harbor's classic 'Bushwhacker' rum cocktail.

06

Drive Drake's Seat & Mountain Top

The interior north-shore mountain road climbs from Charlotte Amalie through the Drake's Seat overlook (the spot where Sir Francis Drake watched his fleet anchor in Magens Bay during the 1593 Caribbean raid) and up to Mountain Top at 1,547 feet — the highest point on Saint Thomas and the home of the original 1956 banana daiquiri. Free; a 30-minute drive from the Smith Bay condo strip.

07

Charlotte Amalie Duty-Free Shopping

Charlotte Amalie is one of the largest duty-free ports in the Caribbean — the Main Street and Back Street row holds A.H. Riise (the original 1838 rum-and-import merchant), Cardow Jewelers, and the watch-and-jewelry strip; Vendor's Plaza on the waterfront has the craft and souvenir stalls. The U.S. Virgin Islands duty-free allowance is $1,600 per person, double the standard Caribbean allowance, so it's the run for Cuban cigars (legal in USVI), Bajan rum, and watch upgrades.

08

Sport Fishing from Sapphire Beach Marina

Sapphire Beach's on-site marina runs half- and full-day deep-water charters out the eastern channel for blue marlin, mahi-mahi, wahoo, and yellowfin — the North Drop wall just outside Pillsbury Sound is one of the Caribbean's most-celebrated billfish grounds, and the August Boy Scout Tournament at Sapphire is the East-Coast captain-circuit's biggest stop. About $700 half-day, $1,200 full; book through the marina office on arrival.

Saint Thomas is the easiest U.S. Virgin Islands base — you fly direct from the East Coast on a U.S. domestic ticket, you don't need a passport, you can drive on the left in twenty minutes, and you can be on the Cruz Bay ferry to the National-Park beaches of Saint John inside an hour of leaving your villa. The east end Smith Bay strip from Sapphire Beach to the Ritz-Carlton Club is where our renters base ninety percent of the time.
Marcus Reilly, RedAwning Caribbean Markets Lead (15+ years in dive-destination hospitality)
Saint Thomas
Beyond the Smith Bay strip

Things to Do on Saint Thomas

Coral World Ocean Park at Coki Point, the Saint Peter Greathouse Estate botanical gardens, the Saint John National Park day-trip via Red Hook, and the Skyride to Paradise Point above Charlotte Amalie.

Beaches & Nature

01 · 5 spots
  • 01

    Magens Bay Beach

    The mile-long heart-shaped beach on the central north shore — Mountain Top road winds down to the entrance, the on-site beach bar serves the classic bushwacker rum cocktail, and the beach itself is fully sheltered with no waves and no current. About $5 entry per adult plus $2 per car. Concessions, restrooms, kayak and paddleboard rentals.

    Address
    Magens Bay Road, Northside
  • 02

    Sapphire Beach

    Sapphire Beach Resort's eastern-tip beach — the parish-favorite walk-in snorkel reef starts thirty yards offshore, the panoramic view runs across Pillsbury Sound to Saint John and Tortola, and the Sapphire Beach Bar at the southern end serves the all-day rum-and-grilled-fish menu. Public access via the resort entrance off Smith Bay Road.

    Address
    Sapphire Beach Resort, Smith Bay
  • 03

    Coki Point Beach

    Coki Beach on the eastern north shore — the calmest walk-in reef snorkel on the island, the parking lot shared with Coral World Ocean Park, and the food-and-rum stalls at the entrance. Most-recommended swim beach for kids on Saint Thomas; can get crowded on cruise-ship days, so go before 11 a.m.

    Address
    Coki Point Road, Smith Bay
  • 04

    Lindquist Beach (Smith Bay Park)

    A protected white-sand crescent inside the Smith Bay Park reserve — the quieter alternative to Sapphire and Coki, with no resort behind it, just a park-managed parking lot and a $5 entry fee. The most-recommended off-grid east-end beach. Bring water and shade.

    Address
    Smith Bay Park, Smith Bay
  • 05

    Saint Peter Greathouse Estate & Gardens

    An 11-acre 18th-century plantation estate above the north-shore Drake's Seat overlook — restored greathouse, 200 plant species in the botanical gardens, a panoramic view across Magens Bay to Hans Lollik Island, and the resident scarlet macaws. About $14 entry. Pair with Drake's Seat and Mountain Top.

    Address
    Estate Saint Peter, Northside

Culture & History

02 · 3 spots
  • 01

    Charlotte Amalie Historic Downtown

    The capital of the U.S. Virgin Islands and the second-oldest European-founded town in the Caribbean (1671) — the 99 Steps stone staircase up to Blackbeard's Castle, the Frederick Lutheran Church (1666), Government House on Government Hill, and Fort Christian (1672) on the waterfront. Self-guided walking tour is the half-day off-beach plan.

    Address
    Main Street, Charlotte Amalie
  • 02

    Fort Christian (1672)

    The oldest standing structure on Saint Thomas — the Danish coral-stone fort on the Charlotte Amalie waterfront, painted ochre-red, and now the Saint Thomas Museum. Three centuries of artifacts: pre-Columbian Taíno carvings, the Danish West India Company trade ledgers, and the U.S. Navy 1917 transfer documents. About $15 entry.

    Address
    Norre Gade, Charlotte Amalie
  • 03

    Blackbeard's Castle & 99 Steps

    The 1679 Skytsborg watchtower above Charlotte Amalie's Government Hill — popularly tied to the pirate Edward Teach (Blackbeard) without much real evidence, but the Danish stone tower itself is the genuine artifact. The 99 Steps stone staircase from Kongens Gade is the most-photographed route up. Free for the steps; about $20 for the tower museum.

    Address
    Government Hill, Charlotte Amalie

Markets, Neighborhoods & Family

03 · 3 spots
  • 01

    Coral World Ocean Park

    Saint Thomas's only marine aquarium-and-park complex on Coki Point — the underwater observatory tower (sit 15 feet below sea level inside the reef), the Sea Lion Encounter, the Stingray Beach interactive pool, and the Caribbean Reef Encounter shark tank. About $30 adults; the most-recommended kid plan for Smith Bay villa renters.

    Address
    Coki Point, Smith Bay
  • 02

    Red Hook Boardwalk & American Yacht Harbor

    The eastern marina village — American Yacht Harbor, the dollar-bus and ferry terminal, the Saturday-morning Red Hook farmer's market, and the boardwalk restaurant strip (Caribbean Saloon, Tap & Still, Duffy's Love Shack). Walk-around afternoon plan for villa families on a non-beach day.

    Address
    American Yacht Harbor, Red Hook
  • 03

    Mountain Top

    The 1,547-foot peak above the north shore — the original 1956 banana daiquiri lookout bar, the panoramic deck looking down on Magens Bay, the BVI to the east, and Puerto Rico on a clear morning. Free entry; the bar runs the daiquiri-and-souvenir stop. The cruise-ship-day tour-bus stop, so go early or late.

    Address
    Crown Mountain Road, Northside

Adventure & Watersports

04 · 3 spots
  • 01

    Saint John National Park Day-Trip

    Twenty-minute Cruz Bay ferry from Red Hook, then a $25 round-trip safari-taxi north to the Trunk Bay underwater snorkel trail, Maho Bay's calm-water turtle-swim, and the Cinnamon Bay archeological-site beach — all inside the 60% of Saint John that's protected as Virgin Islands National Park. The Caneel Bay former-resort beaches are now public-access too. Most-recommended day-trip on Saint Thomas.

    Address
    Cruz Bay, Saint John
  • 02

    Scuba St. Thomas (Cow & Calf)

    The Cow & Calf reef five miles east of Sapphire Beach is the iconic Saint Thomas dive — twin pinnacles, a swim-through arch at 40 feet, and resident schools of horse-eye jacks and Atlantic spadefish. Two-tank trips $130; Red Hook Dive Center on the boardwalk and Saint Thomas Diving Club at Sapphire Beach both run the boat. Beginner reef dives at Capella, the Tunnels, and Frenchcap also out of Red Hook.

    Address
    Red Hook Dive Center, Red Hook
  • 03

    Bareboat or Crewed Charter from Compass Point

    The southern shore Compass Point Marina is the bareboat charter hub for the British Virgin Islands — Sun Sail, The Moorings, and Dream Yacht Charter all run weekly bareboats out the channel to Tortola, Norman Island, Jost Van Dyke, and Virgin Gorda. About $4,500-15,000 per week depending on hull size. The Saint Thomas-to-BVI sailing week is the regional flagship vacation.

    Address
    Compass Point Marina, Frydendal
The dining guide

Where to Eat in Saint Thomas

The Bleuwater dining room at the Ritz-Carlton, Sangria's at Sapphire Beach, the Frenchtown waterfront fish row, the Red Hook boardwalk strip, and Charlotte Amalie's downtown lunch institutions.

Upscale

01 · 3 spots
  • 01

    Bleuwater (Ritz-Carlton St. Thomas)

    The Ritz-Carlton's signature dining room at Great Bay — open-air terrace, Caribbean-Mediterranean menu, fresh-caught daily fish, and a sommelier-driven cellar. The Friday-night seafood buffet on the Coconut Cove deck overlooking the half-moon bay is the Ritz Club's biggest reservation. Open to non-resort renters in the off-season.

    Address
    Ritz-Carlton St. Thomas, Great Bay
  • 02

    Oceana Restaurant (Frenchtown)

    A Frenchtown fixture for two decades — chef-driven Caribbean-fusion in a converted 1830s hilltop villa overlooking the harbor west of Charlotte Amalie. The blackened mahi with mango chutney, the Crucian-curry seafood, and the harbor sunset view from the front terrace. Reservations recommended; the post-shopping dinner stop for Charlotte Amalie cruise-ship arrivers.

    Address
    Villa Olga, Frenchtown
  • 03

    Old Stone Farmhouse (Mahogany Run)

    A 200-year-old restored stone plantation house north of Charlotte Amalie — chef Edsel Stewart's farm-to-table tasting menus, an open kitchen at the dining-room end, and the Crucian-style three-course Sunday brunch. Reservations only; the destination-dining anniversary-night booking on the island.

    Address
    Mahogany Run Road, Northside

Family-friendly

02 · 4 spots
  • 01

    Sangria's (Sapphire Beach)

    Sapphire Beach Resort's open-air pool-and-beach restaurant — Caribbean and Mexican plates, the parish-best happy-hour rum-punch flight, and the easy-walk-back-to-the-condo proximity for Sapphire renters. Live steel-pan music Wednesdays and Sundays; reservations not needed.

    Address
    Sapphire Beach Resort, Smith Bay
  • 02

    Coconut Cove Beach Bar (Ritz-Carlton)

    The all-day beachfront bar at the Ritz-Carlton's half-moon bay — toes-in-the-sand tables, the chef-driven beach-club menu (rum-glazed jerk chicken, lobster cobb salad, the lobster club), and the Wednesday-night beach-pig-roast buffet. Open to Ritz Club renters and non-resort visitors with a beach pass.

    Address
    Ritz-Carlton, Great Bay
  • 03

    Caribbean Saloon (Red Hook)

    The 24-hour Red Hook boardwalk institution — burger-and-fries menu, a sushi roll counter, a pool table, and the late-night kitchen for the Cruz Bay-ferry-late renters. Easy walk from American Yacht Harbor and the Sapphire Beach gates.

    Address
    American Yacht Harbor, Red Hook
  • 04

    Duffy's Love Shack (Red Hook)

    The thatched-roof open-air bar in the Red Hook parking lot — 30+ rum-driven 'shooter' cocktails served in tiki mugs, jerk-chicken sandwiches, and a soundtrack-tracked party-bar atmosphere from sunset onward. Cash-and-credit, no reservations, the Red Hook villa-renter group dinner.

    Address
    American Yacht Harbor, Red Hook

Coffee & Sweets

03 · 2 spots
  • 01

    Pie Whole (Frenchtown)

    A wood-fired pizza-and-craft-beer kitchen in Frenchtown — sourdough pizza, the rotating local-beer tap list, and a small-plates appetizer menu. Easy late-arrival dinner before the Friday-night Frenchtown live-music walk.

    Address
    Hassel Island Road, Frenchtown
  • 02

    Polly's at the Pier (Frenchtown)

    A Caribbean-American breakfast-and-brunch room on the Frenchtown waterfront — the eggs Benedict with crab cakes, the rum-syrup French toast, and the espresso cart for the early-flight cruise-ship breakfast crowd. Cash or card; closed Tuesdays.

    Address
    Honduras, Frenchtown

International

04 · 2 spots
  • 01

    Tap & Still (Red Hook)

    A Red Hook boardwalk burger-and-craft-beer counter — 24 rotating taps of Caribbean and U.S. craft beer, a chef-driven half-pound-burger menu, and outdoor picnic tables overlooking the marina. The Sapphire Beach renter's casual lunch spot. Cash or credit, no reservations.

    Address
    American Yacht Harbor, Red Hook
  • 02

    Thirteen Restaurant (Charlotte Amalie)

    A wine-and-tapas room in Charlotte Amalie's downtown waterfront — small-plate menu, a deep cellar for an island this size, and the only standing-bar pour-by-the-glass natural-wine list on Saint Thomas. The pre-or-post-Frenchtown dinner spot.

    Address
    Norre Gade, Charlotte Amalie
Before you book

Trip Planning, Answered

Best season, the STT vs. STX vs. Cruz Bay airport question, where to stay (Smith Bay east end vs. north shore vs. Charlotte Amalie), the rental-car decision, and what a Saint Thomas week actually costs.

When is the best time to visit Saint Thomas?
December through April is high season — driest, calmest Caribbean side, water temps in the low 80s, and the hurricane risk near zero. Mid-April through early June is the value sweet spot with rates 30-40% below peak and the U.S. Virgin Islands Carnival celebration in late April. July through October is the Atlantic hurricane season — Saint Thomas sits in the central track and Hurricane Maria in 2017 was the most-recent direct hit, so book travel insurance. The Saint Thomas Carnival in late April is the island's biggest party.
What's the closest airport to Saint Thomas?
Cyril E. King International (STT) on Saint Thomas's south coast west of Charlotte Amalie — direct U.S. domestic flights from JFK, Newark, Boston, Charlotte, Atlanta, Miami, Fort Lauderdale, Philadelphia, and Washington Dulles. No passport required for U.S. citizens. From STT the drive to the eastern Smith Bay condo strip is 35-50 minutes via Veterans Drive and the south-coast road. Most renters pre-arrange a taxi or driver ($45-65 each way) for arrivals; the on-site rental-car desks at STT are also available.
How do I get to Saint John from Saint Thomas?
Two ferry routes: the Cruz Bay ferry from Red Hook (eastern Saint Thomas) — 20-minute crossing, runs hourly 6 a.m. to midnight, $9 each way; and the Charlotte Amalie ferry from the downtown waterfront — 45-minute crossing, runs three times daily, $14 each way. Both take cars (extra fee). The Red Hook ferry is the workhorse for day-trippers; the Charlotte Amalie one is the cruise-ship-passenger route.
Do I need a car on Saint Thomas?
Yes if you're doing the cross-island circuit (Magens Bay, Mountain Top, Charlotte Amalie, and the north-shore Saint Peter Greathouse). The U.S. Virgin Islands drive on the LEFT (the only U.S. territory that does), but cars are American-style with the steering wheel on the LEFT — it takes a half-day to adapt. Avis, Hertz, Budget, and the local Discount Car Rental all have STT desks. If you're staying east-end exclusively (Sapphire Beach + Ritz Club + Red Hook ferry to Saint John), a car-and-driver day rate ($150/day) can be cheaper than a week's rental plus parking.
What's the weather like on Saint Thomas?
Average highs of 84-88 °F year-round, water temps 79-82 °F, and the steady northeast trade winds that keep the island much breezier than the latitude would suggest. Dry season runs December-May, rainy season June-November. Hurricane risk is real August-October — Saint Thomas was hit directly by Hurricane Irma and then Maria in September 2017. The Smith Bay east-end has the calmest water on the island; Magens Bay on the north can occasionally see swell from January-March.
Where should I stay on Saint Thomas?
The eastern Smith Bay corridor is the rental-condominium home — Sapphire Beach Resort & Marina (1- and 2-bedroom condos with on-site marina, beach bar, and snorkel reef) for the calm-water condo experience, the Ritz-Carlton Club at Great Bay (2- and 3-bedroom private-residence-club units with twice-daily housekeeping and the half-moon Ritz beach) for the resort-included stay, and Red Hook itself for the boardwalk-walk-out condo pick. The north-shore Magens Bay and Estate Tabor Hill villas offer the bigger private-villa option but are 25 minutes from any restaurant strip. Charlotte Amalie itself is a daytime tourist hub and not a base.
How much does a Saint Thomas vacation rental cost?
Off-season (May-November), studio and 1-bedroom Sapphire Beach condos run $135-300 a night with 2-night minimums. December-April peak season the same units run $250-450. The 2-bedroom Sapphire Beach Resort condos with marina view run $300-650. The Ritz-Carlton Club 2-bedroom residences run $1,000-1,800 in season; 3-bedroom villas run $1,500-2,800 with a Saturday-to-Saturday 7-night minimum. Christmas and Presidents' Week are the peak holiday windows; book 6 months ahead.
Is Saint Thomas safe?
Yes, with normal Caribbean precautions. Charlotte Amalie's downtown after dark and the back-streets behind Main Street can be sketchy after the cruise-ship crowds leave; the eastern Smith Bay condo strip and Red Hook are very safe and well-trafficked. Don't leave valuables in rental cars at remote north-shore beach overlooks (Magens Bay parking lot is fine; the unguarded Drake's Seat overlook is the spot to be careful). The U.S. Virgin Islands have the same drug, alcohol, and 911-emergency laws as the mainland U.S.
Is Saint Thomas the same as Saint Croix?
Both are U.S. Virgin Islands but very different islands. Saint Thomas is the busier, more-developed northern island — Charlotte Amalie cruise-ship port, the Smith Bay resort strip, and the Saint John ferry. Saint Croix is the larger, quieter southern island 40 miles south — Christiansted's Danish colonial downtown, Buck Island National Monument's snorkel trail, the Cruzan Rum Distillery, and a much-lower density of resorts and rentals. Most week renters pick one; flying between the two is a 25-minute Cape Air or seaplane hop ($80-150) and you can do a 3-night Saint Thomas / 4-night Saint Croix split if you want both.
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